OPEN SIDED THIMBLE in adjustable size
I have never used this kind of thimble, but maybe it is time to try it out. My fingers can become very unforgiving after a short time of being “mistreated” these days. Years ago that was a different story. Currently my nails are not very long, so that would not be an issue.
Some people do not like the tips of their fingers stubbed inside a thimble. Finger claustrophobia? I don’t know. A friend of mine has that problem. I might recommend this thimble to her.
by Sew Curvy: "This is the best, most comfortable thimble I can find. This small size is adjustable and I have found through much testing with students, fits most female fingers (a gentleman may need a larger size). Made of brass it is very durable, and is ergonomically shaped so that you can not only wear it if you have long nails, but you don’t get that ‘fingers and thumbs’ feeling when wearing it that you can get with other thimbles.
Wearing a thimble will improve your sewing performance, whether basting fine fabrics, or doing difficult flossing on corsets through many layers of stiff fabric.”
Another smart idea to save time and also stay organised easier by Sew Curvy, a small business based near Oxford, UK, specialized in corset & bra making supplies, corsetry components for couture dressmaking, haberdashery and corset making courses. Owner Julia Bremble:
"Keeping bones organised when cut is always confusing. Especially mischievous pixies come out to play and mix them all up! Cutting bones for both sides at the same time is quicker and rather than label them with masking tape - fiddly - I just whipped up this bone caddy from an old piece of calico and will now use it every time. Simply fold the calico over, then mark 1cm lines all the way along vertically, sew down the lines, mark each resulting pocket with a number and use this to store paired bones for insertion into your corset. I always number my bones from front to back and keep a corresponding list of what they measure separately."
Great tip to cut down on time when repeatedly working with corset mock-ups. I got this from her Facebook page:
"Keep a set of ‘fake laces’ to attach to toiles so that you don’t have to go through the whole lacing palaver every time you make a mock up! Make two strips with eyelets, lace them up as the back of a corset, then sew the strips onto the back of the toile in the appropriate place. When finished, unpick, and use the ready laced strips again for the next toile. Simples!"
Beside the fact that I like the whole outfit, I admire the seemingly perfect angle in which the straps are crossed over the back. That can make such a big difference. I have seen (other style) garments, where angled cross straps did not lie down flat at all and kept bulging up over the shoulders. Not a pretty sight and can somewhat ruin the look of an otherwise beautiful piece of clothing. Here the straps look really nice.
"An 18th-19th-century hybrid corset feature more of a flat-front and conical upper into a Victorian-shaped (un-tabbed) bottom. Boned on the seams with spiral steel and throughout the panels with reed. 18th-century-style buckles fasten the cross-back straps at the shoulder fronts, and the back is spiral-laced over a shaped back panel. Custom-dyed silk satin ribbon matches the deep red silk taffeta."
BEAN BOOBS In Stays… by The American Duchess
Here she goes again…cracking me up. I found the link to her Bean Boob idea on Pinterest, where I stumble onto so many gems these days.
This might come in handy, whenever you are lacking the fullness of real boobage on a dress form or similar mock up tool for your corset or other sewing project. :-)
A few months ago, I posted her article on “Making a workable dress form - or - The violent transformation of Franken-Lilly”. In July the American Duchess was battling "The Polonaise Jacket of Doom and Hell" which included more transformation of Franken-Lilly and the addition of the brilliant BEAN BOOBS, which are actually an idea of her mother. Here they are:
In her own words:
“Bean Boobs are THE BEST THINGS EVER - they are knee-high stockings filled with lentils, pinned onto the chest of the dress form. The brilliant thing about them is that they conform, move, and shift very closely to the way real boobs do, so when you are lifting and squishing boobage with stays, you can now accurately represent that. IT WORKS.”
So go into your kitchen and get your lentils out!
I was delighted to find these Real Body fashion figurines online. We all know that the fashion body is highly stylized - and especially when it comes to fashion illustration there is no one, who actually looks like the idolized beauties presented to us.
Nothing wrong with stylizing a fashion sketch, you might think. You are right. I have done it many times myself, while I was still working as a fashion designer and had my own studio. However, I also had a few private customers, who made comments that “they would never look like the design sketch” I presented them because they were simply not built like a runway model.
As a designer it is not my job to act as a “therapist”, but as I see it sometimes one has to take a small step aside from the goal of just making money & selling and genuinely make the right recommendations and (re)assurances. Back then I was a small size 6 at 5.9 height, so all my happy talk really had to come from the heart to anyone who was somewhat overweight. Now I am a bunch heavier…thanks to years of pain medication, aging (aaks!) and only sporadic exercise. I have to happy talk myself these days, when I go to buy clothing, haha!
Coming back to the subject of this post, I find that these real body figurine templates can come in handy. Especially when thinking about corsets. What do you think? Some customers might like seeing a design sketch on a figure that is much closer to their own. There can also be a benefit by drawing some design ideas onto a “not so perfect” body (whatever that means…dear fashion industry! Anyone bigger than a size 4 is too big. Shoot me!), because one might realize that a certain idea will not work out easily. The sketch is always the start to go deeper into a pattern detail.
Anyhoo, this web page (kudos to the makers of it) has a few more templates…I only posted one of the different types they display. I am sure there will be a lot more in the future.
From the web page:
Why “Real Body”
In early adolescence, many girls are fascinated by fashion design. They often start out by looking for silhouette drawings or templates of bodies that they can trace to sketch their own creations.
A wide variety of images, resources and books specifically intended for fashion design drawing can easily be found on the web and in bookstores. The majority of these, however, show nothing but stereotyped bodies with proportions that are highly idealized and unreal.
Because these templates or models have figures just like Barbie dolls, they end up creating false references which inevitably cause distorted perceptions of how one’s own body looks or should look.
The roots of this initiative
In 2011, a small group of volunteers got together to create a site with the goal of making non-stereotyped model templates available to trace for fashion design… Please go to the web page to read more
Right-click on the image, save it on your computer and print it on a normal sheet of paper. Trace the template with a pencil on a new white sheet of paper and then create your own fashion/corset design.
(via Spiral Corset)
I found this interesting looking corset on Facebook under “Learn How to Make Corsets Like a Pro!” in the album Spiral Corset. There are 3 more photos, one of which shows a little better how the spiral boning is secured in place. (This corset was made by one of the group members - Helen Sleepy H, who is also the owner of Creative Corsets) <added info>
The only info I have from the album is:
- the binding is an inch thick
- she stepped over the bones to create pockets for them
- all the boning is fixed underneath the petersham with a normal grosgrain and the only bones hidden are the flats.
The Facebook group was originally created by Alexis Black, owner at Electra Designs to promote a kickstarter project for the creation of corset making instructional materials. She plans to share updates about the project, plus exclusive short tutorials and behind the scenes videos from her workshops.
I saw info somewhere (can’t find the link right now but will look for it) that her Corset Making Material will be available on 31 October.
What I like about this particular Facebook page is that members share and exchange valuable information on corset making with each other. People really interact. :-)
Check out her main webpage at ElectraDesigns.net for high quality corsets.